November 21, 2009, 2:24 pm

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Mon, 11/02/2009 - 1:41pm
#811
ahoweth
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ahoweth wrote:
I need help. I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado. The brake lights have quit working. We replaced the whole tail light with new ones and still no brake lights. The turn signals work just fine. What else could be wrong?

I would start at the switch under the dash. It is operated from the brake pedal lever. If it is bad everything will work except for the brake lights.

We replaced that also. Could it be anything else?

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Mon, 11/02/2009 - 2:59pm
#812
andersonbrent
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ahoweth wrote:
ahoweth wrote: I need help. I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado. The brake lights have quit working. We replaced the whole tail light with new ones and still no brake lights. The turn signals work just fine. What else could be wrong? I would start at the switch under the dash. It is operated from the brake pedal lever. If it is bad everything will work except for the brake lights. We replaced that also. Could it be anything else?
Does it have power going in and out of the switch when it is pushed? If it does make sure that it is making it into the wiring harness in the steering column. After that if you can read a wiring diagram check to make sure that it is also coming out. check the grounds in the tail end and make sure that they are clean and tight.

Smells like bubble gum to me it does!

Don't kick the dog! You will get bit.

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Thu, 11/05/2009 - 2:27pm
#813
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when i turn my car on the engine starts to race, the RPM's jump to 2500 or 3000, and if it dont jump then it shuts off. i replaced the cam sensor today, and last month i replaced the o2 sensor, coil and plug #5, and air filter. it still has 2 codes on it (p0354) and (p1391) any suggestions for the next step?

its a 2001 chrysler sebring sedan, 2.7 ltr v6 with 105,000 miles on it.

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Thu, 11/05/2009 - 2:45pm
#814
andersonbrent
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big_uncle_05 wrote:
when i turn my car on the engine starts to race, the RPM's jump to 2500 or 3000, and if it dont jump then it shuts off. i replaced the cam sensor today, and last month i replaced the o2 sensor, coil and plug #5, and air filter. it still has 2 codes on it (p0354) and (p1391) any suggestions for the next step? its a 2001 chrysler sebring sedan, 2.7 ltr v6 with 105,000 miles on it.
send me the VIN and I will check to see if there is anything in particular for this car and these problems. Send it in a pm if you are unable to do this contact kpaul at kpaul.mallasch@gmail.com

Smells like bubble gum to me it does!

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Mon, 11/09/2009 - 5:38pm
#815
EYEDOC
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HI I LIVE IN MANAHAWKIN NJ
I HAVE A 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT 4WD STANDARD 5 SPPED MANUAL TRANS RECENTLY I HAD NEW HEADS INSTALLED AMONG OTHER THINGS. THE VALVE COVER ON THE DRIVERS SIDE KEEPS LEAKING FROM THE BOLT AREA CLOSEST TO YHE WINDSHEILD. SUBSEQUENTLY THE GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES AND IT STILL LEAKS.THE HEAD WAS CHECKED TO SEE IF THEIR WAS A ROUGH SURFACE AT THAT POINT BUT THERE WAS NONE. NATIONAL HEAD THE SOURCE OF THE NEW HEAD WILL NOT REPLACE THE HEAD FOR FREE UNLESS THE SHOP CAN IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

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Mon, 11/09/2009 - 8:37pm
#816
andersonbrent
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EYEDOC wrote:
HI I LIVE IN MANAHAWKIN NJ I HAVE A 1998 FORD EXPLORER SPORT 4WD STANDARD 5 SPPED MANUAL TRANS RECENTLY I HAD NEW HEADS INSTALLED AMONG OTHER THINGS. THE VALVE COVER ON THE DRIVERS SIDE KEEPS LEAKING FROM THE BOLT AREA CLOSEST TO YHE WINDSHEILD. SUBSEQUENTLY THE GASKETS HAVE BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES AND IT STILL LEAKS.THE HEAD WAS CHECKED TO SEE IF THEIR WAS A ROUGH SURFACE AT THAT POINT BUT THERE WAS NONE. NATIONAL HEAD THE SOURCE OF THE NEW HEAD WILL NOT REPLACE THE HEAD FOR FREE UNLESS THE SHOP CAN IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM WITH THE HEAD. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I would try a combination of a high quality gasket and high temperature RTV sealant. Some heads run hotter than others an a typical gasket just will not hold.

Smells like bubble gum to me it does!

Don't kick the dog! You will get bit.

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Tue, 11/10/2009 - 10:26am
#817
EYEDOC
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HIGH TEMP RTV SEALANT AND FORD AND AFTERMARKET GASKETS HAVE BEEN USED. SAME RESULTS ....WHAT NEXT?

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Tue, 11/10/2009 - 12:35pm
#818
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EYEDOC wrote:
HIGH TEMP RTV SEALANT AND FORD AND AFTERMARKET GASKETS HAVE BEEN USED. SAME RESULTS ....WHAT NEXT?
Is the valve cover straight? Check to make sure that over tightening has not distorted around the bolt holes. If it is all okay I would probably go with just The RTV and no gasket. Make sure that you give the sealer time to skin up according to the directions.

Smells like bubble gum to me it does!

Don't kick the dog! You will get bit.

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Wed, 11/11/2009 - 12:54pm
#819
amanigan
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I have a 2006 saturn vue - 4 cyl. It is stalling/cutting off during abrupt stops and during accelerating from a stopped position. I changed the plugs and replaced the battery (had them checked). I also replaced the air filter. All the fuses are good. I'm thinking either the fuel pump is going bad or O2 sensor. What could it be?

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Wed, 11/11/2009 - 11:51pm
#820
andersonbrent
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amanigan wrote:
I have a 2006 saturn vue - 4 cyl. It is stalling/cutting off during abrupt stops and during accelerating from a stopped position. I changed the plugs and replaced the battery (had them checked). I also replaced the air filter. All the fuses are good. I'm thinking either the fuel pump is going bad or O2 sensor. What could it be?
well you have a pretty good start. does it have a replaceable fuel filter? If so i would go ahead and change it out. Is the check or service engine light on? Have the codes read and checked. It could be caused by a lot of different things. Have the fuel pressure checked and make sure that it is in the proper range. If you do not find it come back for more suggestions.

Smells like bubble gum to me it does!

Don't kick the dog! You will get bit.

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